how much electricity does one solar panel produce

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Understanding Solar Panel Electricity Output: The Basics

When considering solar energy for your home or business, the first question that typically comes to mind is, “How much electricity does one solar panel produce?” This is a fundamental query that shapes system sizing, budget expectations, and overall energy independence goals. The answer, however, is not a single fixed number. It depends on a complex interplay of factors including panel wattage, sunlight hours, geographic location, tilt angle, shading, and even ambient temperature. In this comprehensive guide, we will break down the mathematics, the variables, and the real-world expectations for solar panel output. By the end, you will have a clear formula to estimate production for any panel in any location, along with insights into efficiency losses and future trends.

To begin, it is crucial to distinguish between the rated capacity of a solar panel (measured in watts, W) and its actual energy production (measured in watt-hours, Wh, or kilowatt-hours, kWh). A panel rated at 400 watts will not produce 400 watts every hour of the day. Instead, that rating represents its output under Standard Test Conditions (STC), which simulate bright, direct sunlight at 25°C (77°F). Real-world conditions rarely match STC perfectly. Therefore, the actual daily production is calculated by multiplying the panel’s wattage by the number of peak sun hours (PSH) in your area, then adjusting for system losses.

For instance, a 400W panel in a location receiving 5 peak sun hours per day would theoretically produce 2,000 watt-hours (2 kWh) per day. However, after accounting for inverter efficiency, wiring losses, dust, and heat, the real output might be closer to 1.7 to 1.8 kWh. This article will dive deep into these calculations, provide detailed tables for various panel sizes, and answer the most pressing questions about solar production. We will also explore how seasonal variations, panel degradation over time, and emerging technologies like bifacial panels and PERC cells influence output. Whether you are a homeowner looking to offset your electricity bill or a business owner planning a large-scale installation, this guide will equip you with the knowledge to make informed decisions.

1. Rated Wattage vs. Real-World Output: What Does a Panel’s Spec Sheet Really Mean?

Every solar panel comes with a datasheet that lists its maximum power output, typically ranging from 250W to 550W for residential models. Commercial and utility-scale panels can exceed 600W. This rating is determined under STC: irradiance of 1000 W/m², cell temperature of 25°C, and air mass of 1.5. However, these conditions are rarely met in real installations. The actual output is influenced by the angle of the sun, atmospheric conditions, and the panel’s operating temperature.

The Impact of Temperature on Solar Panel Efficiency

Solar panels are tested at 25°C, but in reality, panels on a rooftop can heat up to 65°C or more in summer. Most crystalline silicon panels have a temperature coefficient of around -0.35% to -0.5% per degree Celsius. This means for every degree above 25°C, the panel’s output decreases by that percentage. For example, a 400W panel operating at 60°C (35°C above STC) with a -0.4%/°C coefficient will lose 14% of its rated power, producing only 344W under full sunlight. This is why ventilation behind panels is critical for maximizing output.

Furthermore, the angle of incidence matters. When sunlight hits the panel at a perpendicular angle, maximum energy is transferred. As the sun moves across the sky, the angle changes, reducing output. Tracking systems can mitigate this, but they add cost and maintenance. Fixed-tilt systems are typically optimized for the latitude of the installation site to capture the most annual sunlight.

To give you a clearer picture, let’s look at a comparison table of common panel sizes and their theoretical daily output in a location with 5 peak sun hours (e.g., parts of California, Spain, or Australia):

Panel Rated Wattage (W) Theoretical Daily Output (kWh) at 5 PSH Real-World Output (kWh) with 15% Losses Annual Output (kWh) with 15% Losses
250 1.25 1.06 387
300 1.50 1.28 466
350 1.75 1.49 543
400 2.00 1.70 621
450 2.25 1.91 698
500 2.50 2.13 776

This table assumes a system loss of 15%, which includes inverter losses (3-5%), wiring losses (2%), soiling (dust/dirt) (2-5%), and shading (variable). In colder climates with lower ambient temperatures, the temperature loss is less, but the number of peak sun hours is also lower. Conversely, in hot desert climates, high temperatures reduce efficiency, but the abundant sunlight often compensates.

2. Peak Sun Hours: The Single Most Important Variable

The term “peak sun hour” (PSH) is defined as one hour of sunlight at an intensity of 1,000 watts per square meter. It does not mean one hour of daylight. A location might have 12 hours of daylight, but only 4 to 6 of those hours are considered “peak” because the sun’s angle is high enough to deliver near-maximum irradiance. The average PSH varies dramatically by region. For example, Germany receives about 2.5 to 3.0 PSH on average, while Arizona in the US receives over 6.5 PSH. This difference means a 400W panel in Arizona will produce more than double the electricity of the same panel in Germany.

How to Calculate Your Location’s Peak Sun Hours

You can find historical solar irradiance data for your specific location using tools like the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) PVWatts calculator, the Global Solar Atlas, or local weather services. These tools provide monthly and annual average PSH values. For instance, let’s consider three different cities:

City Average Annual PSH (kWh/m²/day) Daily Output for 400W Panel (kWh, after 15% loss) Annual Output (kWh)
Seattle, USA 3.5 1.19 434
Los Angeles, USA 5.5 1.87 683
Phoenix, USA 6.5 2.21 807
London, UK 2.8 0.95 347
Sydney, Australia 4.8 1.63 596

As you can see, the same 400W panel can produce anywhere from 347 kWh to 807 kWh per year depending solely on location. This is why solar installers always perform a site-specific assessment before quoting a system size. If you live in a low-PSH area, you will need more panels to meet your energy needs. Conversely, in high-PSH areas, you might achieve net-zero with fewer panels.

It is also important to note that PSH varies seasonally. In winter, the sun is lower in the sky, and days are shorter, so PSH drops significantly. For example, a location with a 5.0 annual average might see 7.0 PSH in June but only 2.5 PSH in December. This seasonal variation impacts grid-tied systems (which rely on net metering) and off-grid systems (which require battery storage for winter months).

3. Panel Efficiency: How Much Sunlight is Actually Converted?

Solar panel efficiency is the percentage of sunlight that hits the panel and is converted into usable electricity. Standard residential panels have efficiencies between 18% and 22%. Premium panels from manufacturers like SunPower or REC can reach 22.8%, while budget panels might be closer to 17%. Higher efficiency means more electricity per square meter, which is crucial if you have limited roof space. However, efficiency alone does not determine total output; a lower-efficiency panel with a larger area can produce the same or more electricity than a high-efficiency panel with a smaller area.

Comparing Monocrystalline, Polycrystalline, and Thin-Film

Monocrystalline panels are made from a single continuous crystal structure, offering the highest efficiency and sleek aesthetics. They perform better in low-light conditions and have a longer lifespan. Polycrystalline panels are made from multiple silicon crystals melted together; they are slightly cheaper but less efficient (15-17%) and take up more space for the same output. Thin-film panels are lightweight and flexible but have very low efficiency (10-13%) and degrade faster, making them suitable for specific applications like building-integrated photovoltaics (BIPV) or large utility projects where space is abundant.

For residential use, monocrystalline is the overwhelming choice due to its space efficiency and durability. Let’s look at a comparison of typical panel types:

Panel Type Typical Efficiency Wattage Range (W) Area per 400W (m²) Degradation Rate per Year
Monocrystalline (PERC) 20-22% 350-550 1.8 – 2.0 0.3%
Polycrystalline 16-18% 250-400 2.2 – 2.5 0.5%
Thin-Film (CdTe) 10-13% 100-200 3.0 – 4.0 0.5-1.0%
Bifacial Monocrystalline 21-23% (front) 400-600 1.8 – 2.0 0.25%

Bifacial panels are a newer innovation that captures sunlight from both sides, increasing total energy yield by 5-30% depending on the albedo (reflectivity) of the surface below. They are particularly effective on white rooftops, over gravel, or on ground-mounted systems with high reflectivity. However, they are more expensive and require a specialized mounting system that allows light to reach the rear side.

4. Real-World Losses: Why You Don’t Get 100% of Rated Power

Even under perfect sunlight, a solar panel will never produce its exact rated wattage. There are multiple loss factors that accumulate, and understanding them is key to setting realistic expectations. The total system loss typically ranges from 15% to 25% for a well-designed residential system. Let’s break down each loss component:

Inverter Losses

The inverter converts DC power from the panels into AC power for your home. This conversion process is not 100% efficient; modern string inverters have efficiencies around 96-98%, while microinverters are slightly lower at 95-97%. This means a 2-5% loss of energy right off the bat.

Wiring and Connection Losses

Resistance in cables, connectors, and junction boxes causes a small voltage drop, typically 1-2% of total output. Using thicker cables and shorter runs minimizes this loss.

Soiling and Dust

Dust, pollen, bird droppings, and leaves accumulate on the panel surface, blocking sunlight. In dry or dusty regions, soiling losses can reach 7% or more. Rain usually helps, but in arid climates, manual cleaning may be necessary. Studies show that regular cleaning can boost output by 5-10% in high-soil areas.

Shading

Even partial shading of a single cell can significantly reduce output. In a standard string configuration, if one panel is shaded, it can bring down the entire string’s production. This is why microinverters or power optimizers are recommended for roofs with partial shading. A single tree branch or chimney can cause a 10-20% loss for the affected panel.

Temperature and Angle

As discussed earlier, high temperatures reduce voltage and thus power. Additionally, if your panels are not tilted at the optimal angle for your latitude, you lose 5-15% of potential output. For example, a flat roof installation in a northern latitude will underperform compared to a tilted installation.

To illustrate the cumulative effect, let’s model a 5kW system (12 panels of 400W) in a location with 5 PSH:

Loss Factor Percentage Loss Remaining Output (kWh/day)
Rated Output (5kW * 5h) 0% 25.0
Inverter Loss (3%) 3% 24.25
Wiring Loss (2%) 2% 23.77
Soiling (3%) 3% 23.05
Temperature (5%) 5% 21.90
Angle & Orientation (5%) 5% 20.80
Total Real Output 16.8% loss 20.80 kWh/day

This means a 5kW system will realistically produce about 20.8 kWh per day, not 25 kWh. Over a year, that is roughly 7,592 kWh instead of 9,125 kWh. This is why installers use a “performance ratio” (PR) of 0.75 to 0.85 when designing systems.

5. Seasonal Variations and Weather Patterns

Solar production is not constant throughout the year. In the Northern Hemisphere, summer months (June-August) yield the highest output due to longer days and higher sun angles. Winter months (December-February) produce significantly less, sometimes only 30-40% of summer production. This is particularly important for off-grid systems or for homeowners who want to eliminate their electricity bills entirely. Net metering allows you to bank excess summer production as credits to use in winter, but this policy is changing in many states.

Cloud Cover and Rain

Clouds diffuse sunlight, reducing irradiance. On a heavily overcast day, a solar panel might produce only 10-20% of its rated capacity. However, modern panels are designed to capture diffuse light, so they still generate some electricity even on cloudy days. Rain, while reducing immediate output, cleans the panels and improves future performance. Snow can completely block production, but it also slides off tilted panels, and the reflection from snow can increase output slightly.

To visualize seasonal variation, consider a location like New York City, which has an average annual PSH of about 4.0. Here’s a monthly breakdown for a single 400W panel:

Month Average PSH Daily Output (kWh, with 15% loss) Monthly Output (kWh)
January 2.2 0.75 23.3
February 3.0 1.02 28.6
March 4.0 1.36 42.2
April 4.8 1.63 48.9
May 5.5 1.87 58.0
June 5.8 1.97 59.1
July 5.7 1.94 60.1
August 5.3 1.80 55.8
September 4.5 1.53 45.9
October 3.5 1.19 36.9
November 2.5 0.85 25.5
December 2.0 0.68 21.1
Annual Total 505.4 kWh

This table clearly shows that December production is only 35% of July production. If you are designing an off-grid system, you must size your battery bank and panel array for the worst month (December), which means you will have surplus energy in summer. For grid-tied systems, net metering or time-of-use rates can help balance this seasonal mismatch.

6. Panel Degradation Over Time: The 25-Year Performance Curve

Solar panels do not last forever, but they are incredibly durable. Most manufacturers guarantee that panels will retain at least 80-87% of their original capacity after 25 years. The degradation rate is the percentage of output lost per year. For premium monocrystalline panels, this is typically 0.25% to 0.3% per year. This means after 10 years, a 400W panel will still produce around 388W, and after 25 years, it will produce about 370W. Budget panels might have a degradation rate of 0.5-0.8%, which adds up significantly over time.

Why Do Panels Degrade?

Degradation is caused by microcracks in the silicon cells, discoloration of the encapsulant, delamination of layers, and corrosion of the metal contacts. Temperature cycling (heating and cooling) and humidity accelerate this process. Panels with better encapsulation and thicker frames tend to degrade slower. Bifacial panels often have lower degradation rates because the rear side is less stressed.

To understand the financial impact, let’s model the annual output of a 400W panel over 25 years, assuming a 0.3% annual degradation and a location with 5 PSH:

Year Output (kWh/year) Cumulative Output (kWh)
1 621 621
5 613 3,085
10 604 6,164
15 595 9,159
20 586 12,070
25 578 14,896

Over 25 years, this panel will produce nearly 14,900 kWh. At an average electricity rate of $0.15/kWh, that’s $2,235 worth of electricity from a single panel. If the panel costs $250, the return on investment is substantial. This long-term stability is why solar is considered a reliable investment.

7. How Many Panels Do You Need? Sizing Your System Based on Real Output

Now that you understand how much electricity one panel produces, you can calculate how many panels you need for your home. The average US household consumes about 10,632 kWh per year (approximately 29 kWh per day). To offset 100% of this usage, you need to divide your annual consumption by the annual output of one panel in your location.

For example, in a location with 5 PSH and using a 400W panel with 15% losses, one panel produces about 621 kWh per year. Therefore, you would need 10,632 / 621 = 17.1 panels, so round up to 18 panels. This would be a 7.2 kW system (18 x 400W). In a less sunny location like London (2.8 PSH), one panel only produces about 347 kWh, so you would need 10,632 / 347 = 30.6 panels, or 31 panels (12.4 kW). This is why solar is less cost-effective in cloudy regions unless government incentives are generous.

Roof Space Requirements

Each 400W panel requires about 1.8 to 2.0 square meters of roof space. For 18 panels, you need approximately 36 square meters. For 31 panels, you need 62 square meters. Many roofs do not have this much usable space, especially after accounting for setbacks, skylights, and chimneys. In such cases, choosing higher-efficiency panels (e.g., 500W) can reduce the number of panels needed. A 500W panel produces 25% more electricity but occupies only slightly more space (around 2.2 m²), making it a better choice for space-constrained roofs.

Here is a quick reference table for different system sizes and expected annual production in a 5 PSH location:

Number of 400W Panels System Size (kW) Annual Production (kWh) Approx. Roof Area (m²) % of Average US Home Usage
10 4.0 6,210 19 58%
14 5.6 8,694 27 82%
18 7.2 11,178 35 105%
22 8.8 13,662 43 128%
26 10.4 16,146 51 152%

Keep in mind that these are estimates. Your actual production will vary based on orientation (south-facing is best in the Northern Hemisphere), tilt angle, and local weather patterns. It is always recommended to get a professional site assessment before committing to a system size.

8. Future Trends: Higher Wattage, Bifacial Technology, and Smart Inverters

The solar industry is rapidly evolving. In 2024, the standard residential panel wattage has shifted from 300-350W to 400-500W. Some manufacturers like Trina Solar and JA Solar have released 600W+ panels for commercial use. This increase in wattage is achieved through larger cell formats (182mm and 210mm), better passivation techniques (TOPCon, HJT), and improved busbar designs. These panels not only produce more electricity per square meter but also reduce installation costs per watt because fewer panels and racking are needed.

TOPCon vs. PERC vs. HJT

PERC (Passivated Emitter and Rear Cell) has been the industry standard for years, but it is being replaced by TOPCon (Tunnel Oxide Passivated Contact) and HJT (Heterojunction Technology). TOPCon panels offer efficiencies above 22% and better temperature coefficients, meaning they lose less output in hot weather. HJT panels combine amorphous silicon layers with crystalline silicon, achieving efficiencies up to 23.5% and extremely low degradation rates of 0.25% per year. These technologies are slightly more expensive but offer better long-term performance.

Smart inverters and power optimizers are also becoming standard. These devices allow panel-level monitoring and optimization, so if one panel is shaded or dirty, it does not affect the rest of the system. They also enable better integration with home batteries and smart grid systems, allowing you to sell electricity back to the grid at peak rates. In the future, we can expect even more integrated solutions where solar panels are embedded in building materials (BIPV) or combined with EV chargers and heat pumps for a complete home energy system.

Another emerging trend is agrivoltaics, where solar panels are installed above crops. This dual-use of land allows for continued agriculture while generating electricity. The panels provide shade for crops, reducing water evaporation, and the crops keep the panels cooler, improving their efficiency. This symbiotic relationship could be a major growth area in the coming decades.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. How much electricity does a 400W solar panel produce per day?

A 400W panel produces between 1.0 and 2.5 kWh per day, depending on your location’s peak sun hours. In a sunny area with 5.5 PSH, it will produce about 1.87 kWh after accounting for 15% system losses. In a cloudy area with 2.5 PSH, it will produce only 0.85 kWh.

2. How many solar panels do I need to run a house?

The average US home uses about 10,600 kWh per year. With 400W panels in a sunny location, you need about 18 panels (7.2 kW system). In a cloudy location, you may need 30 or more panels. Your exact needs depend on your electricity consumption and local solar resource.

3. Do solar panels work on cloudy days?

Yes, but at reduced output. On a heavily overcast day, panels produce only 10-20% of their rated capacity. However, they still generate some electricity from diffuse light. Modern panels are better at capturing low-light conditions than older models.

4. What is the lifespan of a solar panel?

Most panels have a 25-30 year performance warranty, but they can continue producing electricity for 40+ years. After 25 years, a typical panel will still operate at 82-87% of its original capacity. Physical degradation is slow, but microcracks and delamination can occur over time.

5. How much does a solar panel cost?

The cost of a single panel ranges from $150 to $300 for residential models, depending on wattage and brand. The total installed cost, including inverter, racking, wiring, and labor, is typically $2.50 to $3.50 per watt. So a 400W panel installed will cost around $1,000 to $1,400.

6. Does panel orientation matter?

Yes. In the Northern Hemisphere, panels should face true south to maximize daily output. The optimal tilt angle is roughly equal to your latitude. East or west-facing panels produce less total energy but generate more in the morning or afternoon, which can be beneficial if you have time-of-use electricity rates.

7. What is net metering?

Net metering is a billing mechanism that credits solar system owners for the electricity they add to the grid. If your panels produce more than you use, the excess is exported and you receive a credit on your bill. When you use more than you produce (e.g., at night), you draw from the grid and use those credits.

8. How much roof space do I need for solar?

A standard 400W panel is about 2 square meters. For a 5 kW system (12 panels), you need about 24 square meters of unshaded roof space. For a 10 kW system (25 panels), you need about 50 square meters. Ensure your roof is structurally sound and has at least 20 years of life left.

9. Will solar panels increase my home’s value?

Yes. Studies show that homes with solar panels sell for 3-4% more than comparable homes without solar. The increase is higher in areas with high electricity rates and strong solar policies. A 5 kW system can add $15,000 to $20,000 to your home’s resale value.

10. What happens to solar panels at the end of their life?

Solar panels are recyclable. Up to 95% of the materials, including glass, aluminum, and silicon, can be recovered and reused. Many manufacturers have take-back programs. As the volume of retired panels increases, recycling infrastructure is improving, making it more cost-effective.

Market Pain Points and Solutions for Solar Panel Output

Pain Point 1: High Initial Cost and Long Payback Period

One of the biggest barriers to solar adoption is the upfront cost. A typical residential system costs $15,000 to $25,000 before incentives. Even with federal tax credits (30% in the US), the payback period can be 7-12 years. Many homeowners are wary of such a long-term investment, especially if they plan to move.

Solution: Solar loans and leases have made solar accessible with zero down payment. Power Purchase Agreements (PPAs) allow you to pay only for the electricity generated, often at a lower rate than the utility. Additionally, as panel prices continue to drop (they have fallen 90% since 2010), the payback period is shrinking. In some high-electricity-cost areas like Hawaii or Germany, payback is now under 5 years.

Pain Point 2: Inconsistent Output Due to Weather and Shading

Homeowners often overestimate their system’s production because they rely on the rated wattage rather than real-world conditions. Shading from trees, chimneys, or neighboring buildings can drastically reduce output. Unexpected weather patterns, like a particularly cloudy year, can also lead to disappointment.

Solution: Use microinverters or power optimizers to mitigate shading losses. These devices allow each panel to operate independently, so a shaded panel doesn’t drag down the entire string. Additionally, installers should perform a detailed shade analysis using tools like Solmetric SunEye. Trimming trees and choosing the optimal tilt angle can also improve performance. Setting realistic expectations with a performance ratio of 0.75-0.85 helps avoid dissatisfaction.

Pain Point 3: Panel Degradation and Performance Over Time

While panels degrade slowly, a 0.5% annual degradation means a 10% loss after 20 years. This reduces the financial return and can be a surprise for owners who expected constant output. Some budget panels degrade even faster, especially in hot climates.

Solution: Choose panels with a lower degradation rate (0.25% per year) and a robust warranty (25 years at 87% output or better). Premium brands like LG, Panasonic, and REC offer such warranties. Additionally, regular maintenance, such as cleaning and inspecting for microcracks, can slow degradation. Monitoring software can alert you to unexpected drops in output, allowing for early intervention.

Pain Point 4: Lack of Space for Sufficient Panels

Many urban homes have small or oddly shaped roofs, making it impossible to fit enough panels to meet 100% of energy needs. This is especially true for townhouses and condos. High-efficiency panels help, but they are more expensive per watt.

Solution: Opt for high-wattage, high-efficiency panels (500W+) that produce more electricity per square meter. Bifacial panels can also increase yield from the same footprint. If roof space is truly limited, consider ground-mounted systems or community solar programs, where you can invest in a shared solar farm and receive credits on your bill without installing panels on your property.

Pain Point 5: Grid Connection and Net Metering Policy Uncertainty

Net metering policies are being rolled back in many states (e.g., California’s NEM 3.0). This reduces the value of exported solar energy, making it harder to achieve a reasonable payback. Some utilities also impose demand charges or interconnection fees.

Solution: Pair your solar system with battery storage. Batteries allow you to store excess solar energy for use during peak evening hours, avoiding low export rates. With time-of-use rates, you can charge the battery during the day and discharge it in the evening when rates are high. This “solar + storage” model is becoming the new standard in markets with poor net metering policies.

Pain Point 6: Maintenance and Cleaning Challenges

While solar panels require minimal maintenance, they do need occasional cleaning, especially in dusty or pollen-heavy areas. Bird droppings and leaves can cause hotspots and reduce output. For ground-mounted systems, this is easy, but roof-mounted panels can be dangerous to access.

Solution: Install self-cleaning coatings or use automated cleaning robots for large systems. For residential roofs, hiring a professional cleaning service every 1-2 years is cost-effective (around $150-$300). Monitoring software can detect underperforming panels, so you know exactly when cleaning is needed. In areas with frequent rain, natural cleaning may be sufficient.

Pain Point 7: Inverter Failures and System Downtime

The inverter is the most likely component to fail in a solar system. A typical string inverter lasts 10-15 years, while microinverters are rated for 25 years. When an inverter fails, the entire system stops producing, leading to lost revenue and repair costs.

Solution: Choose microinverters or DC optimizers, which have longer warranties and are easier to replace individually. Some manufacturers offer 25-year warranties on microinverters. Additionally, monitoring systems can alert you immediately to inverter faults, minimizing downtime. Having a maintenance plan with your installer can ensure rapid repair.

Pain Point 8: Aesthetic Concerns and Perception

Some homeowners find traditional solar panels unattractive, especially on historic homes or high-end properties. This can be a barrier to adoption, even if the financials are favorable.

Solution: Solar shingles (like Tesla Solar Roof) and building-integrated photovoltaics (BIPV) offer a sleek, low-profile appearance that blends with the roof. These products are more expensive but provide dual functionality as both roofing and power generation. For existing roofs, black-on-black panels with a sleek frame are less obtrusive. In many neighborhoods, solar panels are now seen as a status symbol, reducing the stigma.

In conclusion, while the question “how much electricity does one solar panel produce” has a complex answer, understanding the underlying factors empowers you to make smart decisions. From rated wattage to real-world losses, from seasonal variations to long-term degradation, every variable matters. By considering your location, roof characteristics, and energy needs, you can accurately predict output and design a system that meets your goals. The solar industry is continuously improving, with higher efficiency, better durability, and more integrated solutions. Whether you are motivated by cost savings, environmental impact, or energy independence, solar power is a proven and increasingly accessible technology. As you move forward, consult with reputable installers, use accurate tools like PVWatts, and consider the full lifecycle of your investment. The sun is a reliable resource, and with the right system, you can harness its power for decades to come.